A Spontaneous Moab Century

Our last day of riding started out like every day before it: breakfast with the "Breakfast Club" (those of us who opted for more food from a local diner than the hotel serve at its continental breakfast), the collection of various sundries we would need for the day (water, snacks, tubes, etc.) and, an exit out of the parking lot by 8:15 a.m.  It was a cool clear morning, and, at least for five of us, the plan was to ride the whole 67 miles planned for the day.  We were heading into Canyonlands National Park, and we were all pumped.

By the time we reached the end of the park road--where we were turning around to head back down into Moab--we were all still feeling strong, and eager.  Several of us had heard about Dead Horse Point (I know, that's a terrible name), the place where Thelma and Louise drove their car over a cliff.  I really wanted to see that (I know, that's a weird desire).  So, our guides, Cy and Patty explained that we could easily do that by pedaling an extra 6 miles out to Dead Horse State Park.  Out and back would add 12 additional miles to our trip, which thrilled most of us at the time.

By the time we were heading to DHP two people in our group decided that they'd had enough, and chose to head back into Moab, leaving (L-R) me, Susan and Laura to trek out to DHP.  DHP was really pretty stunning.  And, strangely, I thoroughly enjoyed seeing the mesa off in the distance, the one across which Thelma and Louise barreled their Thunderbird in the last moments of that harrowing film.

After imbibing in smoothies and taking our final gander at the stunning landscape that is Canyonlands, we hopped on our bikes and took off for Moab.  Once we were back on the main road, our trip was a 15 mile cruise down hill, and Laura and I LOVED that.  At the bottom, we had a ten mile pedal into town...and, this is where Laura and I realized that we had an opportunity.  Dinner was about an hour and half away, so we had some time.  At first we wanted to just even out our mileage, get that 80 miles in with a quick ride up the road that leads to Arches.  Of course, that quick ride put us over 80 miles.  "You know, we only have about 15 miles to go before we reach a century," Laura shouted.  And, I responded simply, "Let's GO!"  So, off we went, backtracking a bit up the bike trail and onto the road leading into Canyonlands.

We ended up being only 30 minutes late to dinner (we HAD to shower, otherwise we may have only missed about 15 minutes), and found when we arrived at the restaurant that dinner hadn't yet been ordered.    It was a pretty amazing way to end our trip, and in spite of the LONG two days of traveling home (Saturday and Sunday) I'm still feeling pretty energized by our spontaneity.  I'm also feeling pretty darn good about my riding.  As you'll recall, I was kind of nervous about this trip.  And, ultimately, WHEW, it was just amazing!

Oh, by the way, I did find another wonderful coffee shop and delicious cappuccino at Mars Cafe in Des Moines, Iowa.  Thanks again, Ann!

And, thanks to all of you for your support and enthusiasm!  Until next time: Pedal on!

A River Raft Runs Down It

Thursday we floated down the Colorado River.  This was a challenge for me.  As many of you know, I spent a significant portion of my earlier life living in the outdoors, teaching and facilitating outdoor education courses that included rock climbing, backpacking, sea kayaking and rafting.  On one of those earlier rafting trips I was thrown from the raft and got my foot caught between two rocks under water.  Clearly I'm still here to talk about it, but...rafting in any shape or form since then has been something I have avoided.  Interestingly, while waiting for our river guide to bring us our PFDs, I overheard a few people talking about how people "panic when they fall out of the boat" and "it's the weak swimmers who get themselves stuck."  Well friends, I'm a fairly strong swimmer, and I wasn't panicking when I was thrown out of that boat 20+ years ago..well, not until my foot got stuck.  But, I was fairly nervous about floating down the river with people who seemed to have relatively narrow views about river rafting.  Fortunately, I wasn't in the same boat with those individuals.  I was in a boat with people who were calm and supportive; who "got" my trepidation and were willing to do whatever I needed to get through the ride.

It turned out to be a stupendous opportunity!  No, I'm not now in love with river rafting (truth is, I never was).  But, I now know that my lack of enthusiasm is more about my general dislike of river rafting, and not about fear.  Sure, we didn't really raft through anything more than Class 2 waters.  But, the experience was poignant.  

The rest of Thursday was an "off-the-bike" day, and I reveled in resting.  Along with two friends, I walked the streets of Moab in search of good coffee and a good bookstore.  Good coffee seemed to elude me in Moab, but, Back of Beyond Books was pure heaven!  As soon as Icrossed the threshold I knew I was in for a treat.  Of course, as expected, there were bookshelves loaded with books written by Edward Abbey and Wallace Stegner.  And, to my delight, I found a section devoted to my favorite writer, Terry Tempest Williams.  My enthusiasm for Williams' writing must have been clear to the owner of the shop who offered to show me some out-of-print material he had in the back of the store. He also told me about Terry's "new book coming out in december" and invited me back to the store for her book signing.  With clear disappointment in my voice, I told him, "I live in New York," to which he spritely responding, "You could fly back."

In the end I pre-ordered her book from him, and he graciously offered to have it inscribed and signed.  I'm still floating by the thought!

Arches by Bike

"A man [or, woman] on foot, on horseback, or on a bicycle will see more, feel more, enjoy more in one mile than the motorized tourists will in a hundred."  (Edward Abbey)

This was surely our experience today.  Four of us left from the hotel to ride out to the end of Arches National Park.  Without taking some of the detours, specifically to Delicate Arch (which is amazing, but none of us wanted to hike 3 hours in the middle of our ride), our ride actually ended up being just over 50 miles. And it was wondrous.  As you'll see below, we had some major hillage today, unlike the last two days.  Well, yesterday's climb was a short, 10 percent grade.  Today...well, you'll see some elevation below.  There are 5 National parks in this area, and all of them are very different.  We saw a lot more sand in Arches, large swaths of sand fields, really.  Which is from the arches and cliff erosion over time.  I'd say more about that, but I actually fell asleep in the 15 minute film about the history of Arches in the visitors center on our way back to town.

By the way, temps have been hovering between 45 degrees in the morning and 70 by afternoon.  Really wonderful weather!

  The sand was a bit of a souvenir from short hike into Sand Dune Arch.

Tomorrow we float down a bit of the Colorado River.  Until then....

Castles in the Air

Today as we pedaled into Castle Valley, I was reminded of Terry Tempest William's book, RED, a book of essays, many of which are about the Castle Rock area.

This land in southern Utah is vast; it's a wild tapestry of stunning red cliffs and spires, winding canyons, natural bridges and arches.  The Colorado River meanders through it, in some places seeming to flow peacefully, and in others with wild abandon.  I'm told that there is an astonishing array of plant and animal life, some I've seen, like the juniper, blue bird, and raven, and others that have eluded me.  Of course, I am pedaling along, keeping a pace that doesn't afford me the opportunity to see the minute details coloring and inhabiting this place.  Still, I'm enjoying a certain solace knowing that so much exists in this area.

The desert is a terrain I've had an ambivalent relationship with, having spent three weeks backpacking through the Chihuahuan Desert many years ago, and hiking in parts of Arizona and New Mexico, struggling with the heat and starkness.  But this desert is like nothing I've experienced.  It's alive in a way that feels both soothing and energizing.  There's no getting bored as the landscape just keeps getting more and more stunning.  Williams writes in RED, "These wild lands are alive.  When one of us says, 'Look, there's nothing out there,' what we are really saying is, 'I cannot see.'"

I see; I see this wilderness that both Williams and Abbey have passionately written about as vast, enlivening and comforting.  I don't know that I'll be back soon, or later, or ever.  But thus far, I have been touched and moved.

MOAB

Edward Abbey wrote of this area in DESERT SOLITAIRE, "Not the work of a cosmic hand, nor sculptured by sand-bearing winds...the arches came into being and continue to come into being through the modest waging action of rainwater, melting snow, frost and ice, aided by gravity.  In color they shade from off-white through, buff, pink, brown and red, tones which also change with the time of day and the moods of the light, the weather, the sky."  This place is awe-inspiring and breathtaking and, in the presence of these arches, spires, the landscape enveloping me, I am humbled.

Our group is 16 stong, women from all over the country, and one woman from Canada (Wellington actually, through which we pedaled last summer on our journey around Lake Ontario).  My anxiety about my ability to pedal this terrain was quelled today.  I felt good, and strong.  We pedaled 42 miles, with a mid-day hike to some of the arches after lunch.  Then it got quite hot, and truthfully, I
do start to wilt a bit with the higher temperatures.

I had my first bad cappuccino of the trip today.  But somehow, that really didn't seem to matter in the larger scheme of things.  Tomorrow we have some major hillage, so perhaps it's time for sleep right now. Thanks friends. Pedal on!

Oh, Colorado

The drive from KC to Denver was just plain wild.  Flat as all get out.  At one point, as some of you read on FB, I was wishing for a hot air balloon to rescue me.  As I also shared there, clicking my Keen sandal heels through Kansas produced nothing.  FYI make sure to add ruby red slippers to your packing list.  One visual reprieve about midway through Kansas was a wind farm that stretched across the land for about 10-15 miles.

Crossing into Colorado, well, within about the first 20 miles, the terrain began to change, and I was just so delighted when I caught my first glimpse of the Rockies, WAY off in the distance.  I loved Denver, drooling over the bike paths, and easy walking around parts of the city.  Took my Colnago out for a short morning ride on Friday, and...well, I have an ode to write about that ride.  That'll be coming soon.

Saw the phenomenal Patty Griffin in concert Friday night at The Oriental Theater.  Not much more to say about that.  She is wonderful.
Coffee shops?  Well, I visited two (and, walked out of 2 without ordering--one in which I didn't feel quite hip enough, and the other wherein my presence in line was seemingly being interpreted as a distraction to a rather intense conversation between the barista and another customer about school reform).  Black Eye Coffee and Metropolis ended up being lovely places to sip, write and take in some of the local culture.

  

After imbibing in two morning caps I took off for Glenwood Springs.  Oh my goodness, what a treat. The mountains...breath-taking and awe-inspiring. (insert pics I'll have to upload later)

In Glenwood Springs I've been staying at a quaint, lesbian-owned B&B, Canyon Dreams, and last night enjoyed a wonderful Ghost Tour through the town's oldest cemetery.  Doc Holliday of OK Corral fame is a permanent resident there, and had quite a story to share about himself.
Today I'm off to Moab.  Yahoooooo!  I'm thrilled to see Cy again, and to meet more amazing cycling women.  I'm also pretty nervous about my riding stamina, having been rather lackadaisical about my road riding during the last month.
Anyway, more when I get to Moab!

tubsumpin'

So, I went out of my way a bit when I got to St Louis.  Frustrated with my VW's nav system, I almost bailed on trying Sump Coffee Bar.  Boy, am I glad I stuck it out.  Lots like Joe Beans in Roc.  Sparsely, and tastefully decorated and focused solely on "purity."  I enjoyed a mid-journey cap, and was thrilled to find that the shop uses local milk, and deep, dark beans.  Yum!

On my way out of SL I couldn't help myself.  Believe me when I say that I was going quite slowly when I snapped this pic.  We were in the midst of construction, so "slow" was the name of the road game.  I also crossed the mighty Missouri River, and geez, I almost turned around when I saw a sign for The Katy Trail.  But then I realized that if I did I would be adding 2 1/2 hours to tomorrow's 8 hour day.  Better planning I should have done (says Yoda).  Anyone up for coming back to Missouri with me and riding the Katy Trail?

Wow, Ohio, Illinois and Indiana are FLAT!  And, how nice it was to see some rolling hills, and strata on the side of the Missouri highway.  Nice day of driving, and now it's time for rest.  Tomorrow, DENVER!

A Surprise in Richmond, Indiana

Okay, I admit it, I drove into Richmond, Indiana last night thinking about NASCAR.  I'm not a fan of NASCAR.  In fact, I know NOHING about car racing.  All I know is based on unfounded assumptions that come from very limited exposure to a few people into NASCAR...people who are not necessarily "my people."  With that said, projecting my prejudice onto an entire state?  Yes, I know, that's just plain wrong (I am reliving the lecture I used to give to my sociology classes on prejudice and discrimination).  Now, in my defense, I entered this state and specifically this town after an 8 hour drive.  So, I was a little fried last night.

Anyway, there is no sunshine to speak of this morning, the skies are grey and drippy.  But, in addition to some early morning yoga, a delicious breakfast at my B&B this morning and a generally delightful disposition, I walked into Roscoe's and found myself completely blown away.  First, the physical atmosphere is a lot like I see the rest of Richmond: it's raw and unpretentious, not quite humble but certainly friendly.  The young man behind the counter--an Earlham student--is kind and funny.  And, to my complete delight, makes a great cappuccino!

I've decided, on the urging of my dear friend, Jana, to incorporate some coffee shop hopping into this trip to Moab.  Roscoe's is my first visit, and I am smitten.  I don't know that I will ever come back to Richmon, Indiana.  But, if you do, stop by this place and sit awhile.

Time to Go!

Woohoo!  The time is here!  Lots of prepping and packing today, so I am heading off to bed now.  More tomorrow from Richmond, Indiana!

Autumn on the Road, A Haiku

Autumn bursts

Leaves guide my path

Waiting for a return.

(72 hours left!)

Heading West

Dear friends.  I have been terribly remiss in writing here.  And, I plan to change that (though, “planning” and “doing” engage two different parts of the brain.  I’m working on getting them to communicate better with one another).

Many of you know that I leave for Moab, Utah next week, where I will be bicycling again with WomanTours (that amazing bicycle tour group just for women based right here in Rochester, NY).  I’m really excited about this trip.  And, I’m fairly nervous.  As the temperatures here in Rochester have been cooling, my desire to ride has cooled as well.  I think about riding everyday.  But, my motivation has been sorely lacking.  I did rescue my mountain bike from the garage last week, and took my Addy for her first “real” ride along an old rail trail.  Not much of a mountain bike ride, but I did really enjoy getting out and pedaling atop the leaves.  At the end I wondered if perhaps the cooler temperatures were bringing out my desire to play on dirt trails.

The ride in Moab will be limited to road riding.  I considered taking my Addy for a MTB ride on our afternoon off.  But after riding on the flat dirt trails last week, I discovered that though fun,  pedaling a heavier bike with 26 mm tires and a more upright position with t-bars…well, I’m way out of shape for that.  Anyway, when I’m road riding I really am in my element.  And so, with the stunning scenery I’m told I’ll see, and a group of women I’m sure will be both inspiring and heart warming, I’m imagining that at least I’ll feel at home.  It’s keeping up with myself that concerns me most.  On our ride around Lake Ontario, I really enjoyed being one of the faster riders.  Not because I was racing anyone, or had some nebulous time limit in mind for reaching our destinations.  But because I just love going fast.  I like getting into a brisk rhythm, and found on that ride that I was getting more and more comfortable with maintaining a faster pace.  I felt strong, and energized.  And, I worry that when I get on my bicycle in Moab, well, perhaps I won’t feel as strong, or as energized.

Then again, is that such a bad thing?  The autumn season is about starting to slow down, right?  And, for those of you who know me well, winter is a hibernatory time for me.  Thus, autumn is all about preparing for that, getting my cave ready.

Who knows how things will turn out next week.  Perhaps I’ll fly over the hills and down into the valleys.  And, perhaps I’ll find that I am the slowest pedaler on the trip.  Hmmm…I can’t imagine how that would make me feel.  But, I’m going, so I must be ready for anything.

Tune in as you’re interested in my musings about my trip out to Utah (oh, yeah, I’m driving out), in and around Moab, and back to Rochester.  In the meantime, and as always, pedal on!

The Hills are Alive...I Feel, Not

Two days after that amazing and excruciating bicycling clinic, and I decided to go out and ride some hills.  There's a nice, respectable hill (not too long, not too short) not far from my home.  I thought that today I would challenge myself to climb and descend it for an hour.  Wow!  What an hour.

Here's what I am coming to learn about myself.  For a commuter and recreational rider, I am in amazing shape.  As a serious rider, I'm doin' okay!  As a potential road racer, I am in abysmal shape.  Now, I don't really aspire to race my road bike.  So, the status of my fitness level as that kind of athlete is really not a worry.  But, I do aspire to increase my fitness and be a serious road rider.  So, there's work to be done!

So, to the hill I went today.  Down, and then up.  ARGH!  That kind of hurt.  Then I coasted down the hill again...and pedaled back up.  That hurt even more.  One more time down...and then...up.  Hmmm, not so bad that time.  Two more times down and up.  And, I was ready to go home.  So, I did five hill climbs.  Not that impressive, I know.  For now.  But later...after days, weeks, even months of riding that hill--up and down--I'm gonna rock!

Women-Only Bicycling Clinic

This past weekend we participated in a women-only cycling clinic, hosted by our fast-becoming-a-friend and world champion cyclist, Leslee Schenk Trzcinski and three of her bicycling comrades, Ken, Emily and Julie.  It as an awe-inspiring, ass-kicking weekend.  I'd signed Jo and I up to ride in the Highlander Tour, a Finger Lakes Tradition for the past 15 years.  Little did I know what I was in for...and, now, I'm not certain that "The Corkscrew" is even a ride we can complete.  Since moving to Rochester, I think I've become a little soft on the hills.  Okay, perhaps I'm lying to myself...perhaps it's the ice cream I've been consuming from the Pittsford Dairy.  But, really, I used to be able to climb hills in Pittsburgh in a respectable amount of time.  Now?  Maybe I'm just thinking about them too hard.

The clinic was helpful in so many ways.  It offered us both some important insights into technique, recovery and nutrition.  And, I left wondering if I really could start to consider myself as "athlete."  Leslee says "Start getting used to it."  And, perhaps if I keep working with her, I'll own that mantel.  For now, I'm bonn take care of my saddle sores, and focus on stretching out my stiff and tired hamstrings.

Whew!  What a ride!!

I'm Making This About More Than Epic Tours

Let me tell you what I think of bicycling. I think it has done more to emancipate women than anything else in the world. It gives women a feeling of freedom and self-reliance. I stand and rejoice every time I see a woman ride by on a wheel…the picture of free, untrammelled womanhood. –Susan B. Anthony, 1896

Hello all! So, it occurs to me that if I wait to write about my "epic" adventures, I won't be writing much on this blog.  So, I'm going to use this blog to chronicle my almost-daily musings riding around my not-so-new hometown of Rochester, New York.  My wife and I moved to Rochester a little over a year ago.  I became instantly smitten with the place when I was reminded that Rochester once provided the backdrop against which Susan B. Anthony tenaciously pursued women’s right to vote in the United States. Thrilled to learn more about my new home,  I set out to explore Susan’s surroundings on my bike. Much has changed, of course, since Susan’s day.  And, I remain both smitten and utterly fascinated by the place.

I think I have developed a couple of intentions for this blog. First and foremost, in addition to my longer distance travels on my bike, I plan to chronicle my experiences of pedaling around town, recording what I see, hear, and am concerned about specifically in the context of cycling. I am a commuter, road rider, path pedaler and cyclotourist, and already I have noticed some things that seem particularly unique to Rocha-cha.  Secondly, I need a "home" for my writing, and a public forum, a place that will house my thoughts and ideas, and provide shelter for the dialogues I hope will emerge and evolve.

No one woman is an island. And, so, as I share with you my thoughts, ideas, questions and concerns, I hope that you, as you are interested and/or moved, will (respectfully) engage and interact with them. I don’t respond well to bullying, and am generally uninterested in the espousal of values or attitudes that negate or neglect the diversity of people and bikes out on the streets. This doesn’t mean that I don’t believe in certain rules of the road, or norms around cycling and interacting. For example, I do believe in the NYS law that bicyclists riding on the road should ride with other modes of traffic (not against it), that bicycles do not belong on the sidewalks (although, that isn't a law throughout the city), and that people riding bikes at night should have numerous reflectors and lights on their person and/or bike so that passersby can see them. I do not believe that to ride a bike one must wear spandex (though I do when out exploring the roads), that there is one legitimate type of bike to pedal in the streets, or that bicyclists should be allowed to disregard traffic lights and stop signs.

Finally, this blog is most certainly a work in progress. And, I both invite and encourage you to read my words in the spirit of curiosity and openness. Thanks so much (again) for visiting, and engaging my project here. Now, in deference to Susan B. Anthony and all of the women (and, woman-identified people) who have participated and continue to contribute to the realization of emancipation, let’s get on our wheels and pedal on! REJOICE!

Home and Rested

Hello Friends!  Thank you so much for following along.  Unfortunately, around Niagara I ran into some iPad glitches, so filling you in on our travels from Niagara to Rochester was more trouble than I had energy to address.  But here I shall try to remedy things.

Our trip from Burlington to Niagara did follow the backroads above the Escarpment, through the Niagara area wine country.  And, as my friend, Jack suggested it would be, it was beautiful.  We didn't stop to imbibe in any wine tasting that day, but would certainly return at some point to take advantage of that trail (after we pedal the Finger Lakes Wine County Trail).  Our trip in Niagara Falls was nice, though admittedly, after arriving we chose not to visit the casinos or Hard Rock Cafe.  Instead, we opted for showering, cleaning our bikes and socializing with our fellow adventurers.  We did learn however that Niagara Falls State Park "Reservation," as it was conceived of and designed by Frederick Law Olmsted and Calvert Vaux, is America's oldest state park.  Though sadly, the park no longer resembles a place "where the masses could be renewed" by the grandeur and beauty, as Olmsted had hoped.  Perhaps that says enough about why Jo, Mary and I remained close to our hotel that evening.

The next morning, however, was spectacular, with a short detour from our planned route to the Falls.  Here, Mary, Jo and I are standing in front of the Falls at about 7:30 a.m., and already you can see the  clear skies and warm sunshine that ultimately followed us throughout the day.

Our trip on Friday took us from Niagara Falls to Brockport, New York.  Bicycling through customs over the Rainbow Bridge was quite an experience.  Bicycles are not permitted on the pedestrian sidewalk, and don't have a lane of their own.  So, we had to pedal ever-so-slowly amidst the cars, RVs and small trucks.  Fortunately, as it was still early, we proceeded through the process rather quickly, finding the agent in our line to be particularly curious about our travels and courteous.

Brockport is a sweet little college town, with a great coffee shop (we're told) and easy access to the Erie Canalway.  Our hotel was about a mile from town, so exploring the area was a little more difficult (cycling the mile into town after pedaling 70+ miles to get to our evening's nest was not an option for us).  Jo and I plan to bike out that way soon, though.  Our evening in Brockport marked our last night together with this stupendous group of women, and included another delicious meal, prepared by our tour chef, Sue, uproarious laughter and entertainment, and a song performed by The Pelotones for our intrepid guides, Cy and Sue, to the tune of "The Twelve Days of Christmas."

Finally, the next morning we set off for our 40 mile trek into Roch-cha-cha, weaving through some of the back country roads of Brockport, Spencerport, and Greece.  Eventually we pedaled along the Erie Canal to Lock 33, jumped atop Edgewood Avenue, Westfall Road, Allen Creek, Clover, Blossom, Creek and Bay Roads, then turned onto the Route 104 Trail which delivered us safely to the parking lot of our first hotel, the Hampton Inn on Hard Road.

One more meal together, lots of hugs and good-byes...and, we are now home...thrilled to have had the privilege of trekking 564 miles around Lake Ontario with WomanTours and these fabulous, brave and  entertaining women!  Already looking forward to the next tour...anyone wanna go?

The Short Day

Burlington, Ontario.  Just a hop, skip and jump from Toronto.  A lovely town right on the western-most "corner" of Lake Ontario.  Today's ride was a short one, just 39 miles door to door.  With the promise of blue skies, and short mileage, our band of Pelotones opted for coffee and full breakfasts before beginning our trek (which included not just protein, but carbs and SUGAR in the form of chocolate and almond croissants).  Gosh, I love being able to REALLY indulge my sweet tooth on bicycling adventures like this.  For coffee lovers visiting Toronto (especially those who imbibe in the dark roasts), Balzac's in the Old Town section of the city, across the street from the St. Lawrence Market, is a must.  Both their coffee and vanilla latte's are to die for...and, the pastries lining the shelves looked simply delectable.

The Waterfront Trail heading southwest out of the city is really lovely.  Most of it is paveed, with sections here and there that meander through neighborhoods and along less trafficy roads.  We really enjoyed the chance to just be playful and unhurried today.  Though, in truth, we haven't really been in a hurry any day.

For those who have shared that my writings have painted an idyllic picture of our travels, let me say, that car drivers in Canada are pretty much the same as car drivers in much of the US.  Though we've pedaled through some incredibly bike-friendly towns, there are those places along the route wherein the town, village or city might bill itself as "bicycle friendly," but their car drivers didn't seem to get the message.  Of course, change comes slowly, as we all know.  And, even with the few drivers who have felt the need to race, speed past, or even yell at some of us, the great majority of Canadians and others, have been delightful!

Tomorrow we head for Niagara Falls, which I'm quited excited for as I've not visited the Falls since I was a child.  AND, this part of the trip will give me a clear sense of how easy (or hard) it will be to ride to Toronto in the future.  Happy trails, all!

Tea Time on Two Wheels

For those of you who have asked, I'll have pictures to share after we return to Rochester.  I've been unable to upload pics to my blog on my iPad.

We arrived in Toronto Monday afternoon after spending the day pedaling 57 miles along paved roads, dirt roads, the Waterfront Trail, unmarked paths and parking lots.  It was quite a day, navigating five pages worth of a cue sheet.  Whew!  But along the way, the Pelotones, as our band of six (yes, I know I wrote five the other day...it's actually six) singing bicyclists have come to call ourselves, enjoyed lots of fun, frolic and the modification of more songs and poetry.

The highlight of the day, before actually arriving in "Hogtown," was coming upon the sweetest little tea cafe in a plaza along our route.  Not only did we enjoy sitting amongst tea drinking Canadians who found our cycling kits to be rather entertaining, we had quiche, scones, crumpets and, of course, tea (and coffee) on tables with white tablecloths and Prince Albert china.  Our hosts, Janine and Richard were incredibly gracious and cordial, seemingly thrilled that we wanted to eat in their establishment when there was a bar and bistro right around the corner.  We all laughed and said that we were equally thrilled that they would let our smelly, dirty, bicycling selves even step foot in their cafe.  We felt quite civilized.

Toronto is a hoot, of course, a large, bustling city that has an impressive bicycling infrastructure.  Our day today was a rather sedate one.  Our one day off during this trip, and we each found ourselves interested in walking...drinking coffee...and napping.  So much to see here, and most of us just wanted to rest in the sunshine!

Tomorrow, we'll pedal our shortest distance of 39 miles to Burlington, ON.  Jo and I plan to return to "the Queen City" this fall to see "The Book of Mormon" & "Wicked."  (There's also a show called "Spin" that I plan to see, a one woman show about Annie Londonderry--read up on her and her bicycle trip around the world).

For now, bedtime!

Butters and Washboards

Yesterday was a 79 mile day, and today, a whopping 75.  Our group has been feeling good, taking care of themselves, and enjoying the tour without too much stress.  Couldn't post anything yesterday as wifi was sorely lacking at our hotel.  My goodness, remember the days when we didn't even think about wifi at the end of the day?  At any rate, here are the highghts:

We pedaled to Trenton, Ontario yesterday.  Not the most scenic part of our tour thus far.  Rather, a sort of depressed-looking town, struggling to come back from the loss of some kind of booming industry from yesteryear.  Our hotel however, though similarly sad in many ways, provided us with cozy nests in which to lay our heads after our long day.  As for, the day?  Some of us pulled out of the parking lot around 7 a.m.  And, from the start we were a group of five singing, playing, bicycle riding dames, a peloton of riders with similar paces and temperaments.  It was a marvelous day that included blended coffee drinks and vegan brownies in the town of Bath, a lunch of veggie wraps in Picton, a wine tasting stopover just west of Wellington, and bicycle-themed modifications of songs like "She'll Be Coming Around the Mountain," "Riders On The Storm," and "The Wheels on the Bus."

Today, our ride began with a few raindrops.  Nothing too daunting for our intrepid pedalers.  Then, about ten miles down the road, the clouds opened up and the deluge through which we pedaled for the next three and a half hours was just simply stunning.  By our first SAG stop there wasn't a dry piece of clothing or skin!  Gloves and socks were removed so that they could be wrung out, jackets remained zipped in an effort to preserve what little warmth had been conjured, and road crud was brushed off of our seats and backsides only to be replaced just moments later when we set out for our next 25 miles.

In truth, the worst part of the day had nothing to do with pedaling in the rain. Most of us realize and appreciate the privilege we are enjoying by simply being able to come on a trip like this, doing what we love to do with interesting and neat women.  No, it wasn't the dirt or precipitation.  Rather, it was the air conditioned Subway in which we ate our lunch.  My goddess, it was cold.  And, Subway?  Darn...can't we get that anywhere?!  Evidently, there was a local cafe known to serve delectable vegetarian fare right down the road.  However, our SAG, arriving in the small hamlet of Cobourg ahead of us determined that the wait for a table was 30 minutes.  So, we opted for Subway, which wasn't actually bad at all.  Then, we found a coffee shop across the street that served DARK coffee.

After filling up on subs and caffeine, we set out for the next thirty miles...and, within 30 minutes we were pedaling under warm, sunny skies.  Jackets were stuffed back in their trunks or Camelbacks, clear lenses were replaced with sunglasses, and our spirits soared as they had in the days before, as we biked along the Waterfront Trail with Lake Ontario waving across our left shoulders!  FYI, for those who are interested in the surface of our "trail," though the Waterfront Trail is the offical name of our route, we are pedaling along roads that have been a mix of "butter"-like smoothness, and "washboard" rough.  The "trail" follows a route that rarely resembles the Erie Canalway, or the paved section of the WFT (not to be confused with WTF) north of Kingston.  And, again, it's a delight (mostly) to have pedaling be the only thing we MUST do during the day.

Another day under our chamois!   Tomorrow we head into Toronto, then have a day off from riding.  Happy trails, my friends!  Thanks for following along!

On to Canada!

We are here, in Kingston, Ontario.  Our hotel is situated right on the water, and the Thousand Island Waterfront Trail, right outside our door.  Be-au-ti-ful ride from Sacket's Harbor, through Dexter and Lyme, and into Cape Vincent.  Took two ferries, pedaling across Wolfe Island--and through the world famous Wolfe Island Wind Farm--then docking at the Queen Street Ferry dock just in time to witness the kick-off of Kingston's annual Buskers Festival.  My goodness, the buskers we're seen!  Some talented, some just plain whimsical; all impressive in their own right.  Tomorrow we head for Trenton!

Some of the highlights today: breakfast at Ann's in Cape Vincent, two osprey nests, one with babies chirping away for food, and serene backroads atop which many of us relived our early childhood years, weaving all over the road, and coasting down hills with our hands held high in the air.  Lovely.

More tomorrow!  Off to dinner now...I love eating, eating, eating and drinking lots of milkshakes when riding long distance!

Mr. Sackett's Village

51 miles to Sacket's Harbor today.  Long, undulating hills, passing mainly through farmlands and tiny towns.  Lots of ice cream possibilities.  Perhaps today's route could be renamed "The Ice Cream Trail."  No arm-twisting necessary for anyone who might like to ride this route together in the future. The ride was both fun-filled and harrowing at times.  Though we mainly enjoyed pedaling roads with wide shoulders and relatively calm traffic, there were a few places where the shoulder was either narrow or non-existent, and one road that is clearly a main thoroughfare for 18-wheelers and buffed out Tonka truck-like vehicles.  None of the drivers of these vehicles were intentionally threatening or intimidating.  But their existence on our trail was a bit scary at times.

Our first view of the lake today was in Henderson Harbor where we stopped for lunch at the Westview Lodge.  Gorgeous to say the least!  And, only 8 miles from Sacket's.  Sacket's Harbor is a wonderful little town (note: not tiny).  After arriving around 1:30, we showered and quickly headed out for coffee, ice cream and a tour of a town noted to be particularly significant to the Americans during the War of 1812.  Originally settled by Augustus Sackett in the early 1800s, and later referred to as "Mr. Sackett's Village," Sacket's Harbor, a protected harbor on the western edge of Lake Ontario, housed a major US Naval shipyard, was the site of two battles during the War of 1812 and became home to Madison Barracks (named for President James Madison), a strategic military post from the War of 1812 to World War II.

In addition to its military history the town supports several art galleries, numerous pubs and restaurants, and some pretty darn delicious hard scoop ice cream.  The walk along the harbor is just stunning, with views of Ontario that make Canada feel like it's just a hop, skip and a jump away.

In other news, our bullet-proof tires have held up relatively well.  Sadly, Jo awoke to a flat rear tire, probably the result of a slow leak from a pinch on yesterday's sometimes gravelly roads.  And, I have ditched my handlebar bag.  After spending hours feeling like I was plowing the roads as opposed to gliding along them on my road bike, I threw that bag in the SAG wagon and swore to myself that I would never, ever diminish the beauty and precision of my road machine with such frivolty.  I have been wearing my small Camelback, loading it with a various sundries I might need (ie my rain jacket).  And that has worked out just fine.

Tomorrow we head into Canada!  Yahoo!  And the weather continues to look cool & sunny!

Webster to Oswego

First day of riding.  We pedaled roughly 65 miles from Webster, New York to Oswego, New York, following the Seaway Trail which runs relatively close to Lake Ontario.  Many stunning vistas enjoyed as we rolled along upstate New York's undulating hills.  Sadly, we were also made privy to some of the havoc and devastation wreaked on towns like Fair Haven from the tornado that went through the area Tuesday evening.  Lots of debris on the roads, and many downed trees.  A few homes had been destroyed.  And, while devouring some delicious homemade cheese and black berries at a small market at mile 33, we observed a house that had burned to the ground only hours after the storm had subsided.  Needless to say, we were all quite grateful that our trip started the day after.

People's spirits were generally quite high today.  The weather was near idyllic with temperatures in the 60s and 70s, and cool breezes keeping us all comfortable and energized.  Some of the highlights of the trip were Sodus Lighthouse, various farmer's markets pocking the route, and the Hardware Cafe in Fair Haven, a hardware store-turned coffee shop and cafe with delightful wraps, salads and fresh brewed iced tea.  I always seem to crave unsweetened iced tea after riding long distances.  And, this tea did not disappoint.

We arrived in Oswego at 2:30 pm, and immediately showered--in our biking clothes (a shortcut to laundering...which, really works "only a little")--then headed out to explore this quite large and interesting university town.  There's a rich history that starts with the Mohawk Indians as stewards of the area, and includes Dr. Mary Walker, a female surgeon who was the first woman to receive the US Medal of Honor for her work and care of soldiers during the Civil War.  There's also a fantastic bike shop in the area, Murdocks, wehere I purchased a t-short some of you may see soon.  This evening we were treated by our chef Sue, to a scrumptious meal of chicken and mushrooms in a white wine sauce over egg noodles, with a strawberry salad and both strawberry and black raspberry pie for dinner, and some sharing of more stories from the day and other's bicycling expeditions.

Tomorrow we ride to Sacket's Harbor, our last stop in the US for a bit!  Here's hoping that you're all enjoying some kind of adventure in your days.  More later!

All I Really Need To Know I Learned on My Bicycle

Some of you will recognize my modification of Robert Fulghum's "All I Need to Know I Learned in Kindergarten."  Here's to living what I've learned since those days on the playground, or perhaps more appropriately, since those days spent wondering the streets and paths of my childhood!

All I really need to know about how to live and what to do and how to be I learned while riding my bicycle.  Wisdom was not at the top of a French mountain, but there in the saddle of my bike.  These are the things I learned:

Share the road. 

Ride responsibly.

Don’t run over people.

Put bike tools back where you found them.

Clean up your own chain lube and grease.

Don’t take a bike that isn’t yours.

Say you’re sorry when you cut off a pedestrian.

Be generous. 

Drafting is good, especially for the cyclist in the back of your peloton.

Take off your gloves and wash your hands before you eat. 

Stop at stop signs and red lights.

Snickers Bars and chocolate milk are good for you.

Live a balanced cycling life—pedal some and ponder some, and coast and sprint, and race at least once.  Take your turn in a paceline seriously.  Don’t be afraid to walk up hills that are too steep, and explore a new area of your town, city or the countryside every week.

Wear a helmet.

When you go out for a group ride, watch out for automobiles, squirrels, small children, broken glass and potholes, keep your head up and stick together.

Be curious.  Remember the training wheels on your first bike.  For days, weeks, even months, you rode with abandon up and down your driveway.  Then the training wheels came off, and you rode with abandon into your neighborhood and beyond.

And then remember the Berenstein Bears’ book, The Bike Lesson, and Mrs. Armitage on Wheels, and the first words you learned—the biggest words of all—KEEP PEDALING!

Everything you need to know is in there somewhere.  The Golden Rules of the Road and love and basic hospitality.  Ecology and politics and equality and sane living.

Take any of those items and extrapolate it into sophisticated adult terms and apply it to your family life or your work or your government or your world and it holds true and clear and firm.

Think what a better world it would be if we all—the whole world—shared the road and had Snickers Bars and chocolate milk every afternoon.  Or if all governments had as a basic policy to always put things back where they found them and to clean up their own mess.

And it is still true, no matter how old you are--when you go out on a ride, it is best to keep your head up and KEEP PEDALING!